$14.1 Buy It Now or Best Offer
free,30-Day Returns
Seller Store atlantaprosound
(1659) 100.0%,
Location: Monroe, Georgia
Ships to: US,
Item: 176029870211
Restocking Fee:No
Return shipping will be paid by:Seller
All returns accepted:Returns Accepted
Item must be returned within:30 Days
Refund will be given as:Money back or replacement (buyer’s choice)
Compatible Brand:For Technics,Technics
Artistic Audio:Artistic Audio
Type:Drive Belt
Compatible Model:SL-25B
MPN:FRi 236
Brand New Technics SL-B280 SL-B280U Belt Welcome to Atlanta Pro Sound ••••• Under Construction – Fix Colors! ••••• Brand New Replacement Belt for Technics models SL-25B Available as Buy it Now one (1) brand new replacement belt for Technics turntable, models SL25B Please be sure to compare shipping prices!!! Do not get tricked into spending almost $6.00 delivery! There is a myth that one belt fits 95% of all turntables. Nothing is further from the truth. (It is also a myth that all Technics tables take the same belt!!!) A belt that is an inch too large or small will probably run on your turntable, but if it is too small, it will wear out your motor years before it would under normal conditions. If it is too large, it might also be bad for the motor, but as belts get older, they expand, so in the best case, you need a replacement years before you should. Take Note! There are people online who have been selling belts for 5-10 years. Many have lots of feedback or websites that “look” like they know what they are doing. (One place selling belts on eBay even sells surfing supplies!) Do they really know what belt is the match for your turntable? Technics quit giving technical support on the models S-L20, S-L20A, S-L22, S-L22A, S-L33, S-L23A (including part numbers) over two decades ago. After the the last of the model SL-20B rolled off the assembly line, I was Assistant Store Manager for the largest independent Technics dealer in the Southeastern US, a job that I held for over 2 decades. Read my Seller History below for more information. (In case you are wondering…I enter the model with the dash in different positions so those who search for the model can find it regardless of if they have the dash in the right place!) 5 Belt Measurements All flat rubber belts have 5 measurements that affect the belt’s performance. Length is the one most people think of right away. Length affects how tight the belt is. If it is too tight, the motor will not run (or if it is just a little too tight, the motor will wear out quickly). Width is one you might not think is important, however, the manufacturers specify this one down to the 64th of an inch! If the belt is too wide, the risk is the belt will hit the outsides of the capstan, which will create momentary bumps in the speed. If the belt is too narrow, it does not have enough contact with the capstan, causing it to slip. Either of these problems may be inaudible at first, but later? Who knows? Thickness of the belt is the smallest of the measurements. Most Turntable belts are close to the same thickness, but your parts provider who has only a decade of experience might buy their belts based on length and their cost alone. You could get a belt that they bought wholesale at 99 cents but is way too thick! A belt that is too thick will not fully fold around the capstan, causing more pitch problems. If you call to complain, you are told that your turntable has natural Wow and Flutter. Friends: These models’ Wow and Flutter is eight (8) times below the audible limit (Sources: Julian Hirsch – Hirsch-Houck Labs and the Technics models SL-B1, SL-B1A SL-B2, SL-B2A, SL-B2K SL-B3, SL-B3A, SL-B5 and SL-B5A Service Manuals). Don’t let them pull the wool over your eyes! If you hear wow and flutter (a.k.a. bad speed fluctuation), you might just have the wrong size belt! External Diameter. This one is a no-brainer, it is closely related to the thickness and internal diameter. Internal Diameter. Like #4, this one is also a no-brainer, it is closely related to the thickness and external diameter. Many old-style belts were cut to size. Modern (get it out the door as fast as you can) cutting techniques can lead to inconsistencies and inferior product. This belt is not cut, it is precision molded to meet original factory specifications for the Technics SL-20, SL-22, SL-23, SL-33. The belt you are about to receive was recently manufactured by the same company that made the first belts for the Technics models SL-BD10, SL-BD10K, SL-BD20, SL-BD20K, SL-BD30, and SL-BD30K. My distributor, Artistic Audio of Atlanta, buys thousands of belts made by this company and has been sending them all over the United States for years. Every few of weeks Artistic Audio of Atlanta reorders belts buy (pun intended!) the hundred, replacing the stock they have sold. No belt is on their shelf more than a few weeks. Because they come into the distributor regularly, I can personally guarantee that the belt you get is fresh! About these Models: The SL-25 is a model that I am just learning about. It is a semi-automatic belt drive turntable that was designed to run at 33 and 45 RPMs. It is semi-automatic, which means that you have to move the tonearm over to the record. After the record is complete, the turntable picks up the arm and returns to the off position. The speed switch (far left) on the SL-22 is looks like it is two-positioned, 33, 45, with no neutral « off » position that was popular in later models used by DJs. If the turntable is plugged in and the belt is fresh, then might will start when you move the arm toward the record (if so, the arm motion activates a switch…). Where most expect a power switch, there is a switch that might say “Cut” (right side). If so, pressing this switch will send the turntable into the “cutoff mode”. There appears to be no user accessible pitch control. If you buy a strobe pattern and notice it is off, I can walk you through the speed adjustment (as soon as I get my copy of the service manual). The turntable has a woodgrained base that may have been an option, or it may have come on all the models.The controls are in under of the dust cover, so it can not be operated without raising the cover. I suspect that the RCA cable and the power cable do not detach, they are attached to the inside of the turntable and come out of the rear of the chassis. It was discontinued before I started as manager of the largest Technics dealer in the Southeast (US) and that store might not have sold as much Technics in the earliest days. If you have photos, I need one from the front, back, and top. Are you about to purchase one of these models? The motor and drive system are built like a tank. Seeing it run may be your least concern. Here is what I check before buying: It should have a standard mount cartridge. Cartridges are metal and plastic pieces that (in these models) plug into a headshell, the headshell plugs into the arm. Cartridges also hold the stylus/needle. If you have a cartridge, but no stylus or needle, contact me where it says « Ask Seller a Question, and ask, I probably have your stylus in stock. It should have a counterbalance (weight on the part of the arm furthest from the record). Sometimes the counterbalance gets knocked off in shipping (it happens when people ship these and do not know how to pack them to prevent this very thing!) Without the counterbalance, the turntable is worth only the money for parts. It can not be reattached, and buying a tonearm is not possible, unless you get one for parts). The cartridge should have a stylus. Styluses are “needles” that have the piece that touches the grove and plays the record. Look at the stylus. Does it have a piece of metal that lowers to the record, and is there a tip on the end of it? There are too many kinds of styluses to list them all on eBay. I have about 2,000 in stock, I probably have the one you need. If you need a stylus, click on “Ask Seller a Question” to send me a message. The last one is really easy to check as well. There is a black plastic bar in front of the place where the tonearm pivots. That is the arm lifter. It should move up and down when you change the position of the “cue” switch (front right) You may have heard someone say that the sound of vinyl sounds better than CDs. “How can this be?” you may wonder…the CDs do not have that scratchy sound. It is a matter of detail, really. You can prove it yourself with a $20.00 thrift-store turntable and a generic stylus. Get a copy of something easy to get, something acoustic, something like James Taylor’s, Carly Simon’s or Carol King’s greatest hits. (The demonstration works best with acoustic guitar, harp or lute, but once you have noticed the difference, you will be able to hear the difference on everything! The introduction to Ventura Highway by America will work well also.) Play it on your turntable, and listen especially to the very beginnings of each note in the guitar. Focus your attention to the very beginnings of each plucked string. The strings will sound almost like you can hear each of them roll off of the player’s fingers. That is the way it should sound all of the time. Now, play the same selection on a CD. You will probably notice that the beginnings of the notes sound muffled or slow. The beginnings of the notes on the CD have much less detail than their counterparts on vinyl. The reason is built into the way CD players work. CDs have a sampling rate of 44,100 samples per second. What this means is the volume level of a given sound is recorded at that frequency. ••••• Under Construction – Insert New Table Here! ••••• While the volume of the actual string is getting progressively louder, the volume on the CD recording is an average. As a note quickly gets louder, the CD sounds like stair steps, because we have a recording of averages for the length of time of the sample. This is why the vinyl sounds more like the original sound than the CD. Once you hear this, you will always look at listening for detail in the sound differently. Buying a new belt so you can transfer all your vinyl to CD? If you have read and understand the previous section, then you might want to re-think. The CD recording you make can not possibly sound the same as the vinyl, because in making the recording, you are creating the same stair-stepping sound that does not sound as good as the original vinyl! OK, OK, if you want to make CDs for the car, go ahead, but if you want to make CDs for detailed listening, maybe you should keep your vinyl. Georgia Residents will pay 7% Sales Tax. Shipping and handling is only $1.99 to any point in the USA. Belts are shipped by USPS Ground Advantage (2-5 Day expected delivery). Please, ask in advance about international shipping. Priority Mail shipping to the US is available for $9.65. Most items are shipped within 1 business day. Thanks in advance for your purchase!
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